returning home

The last security has been passed...I’m now sitting at the gate waiting for my flight to be called. We made it to the airport in 1½ hours. On a Sunday, there’s no traffic, but the closer we got to Recife, the worse the condition of the roads. Even though we arrived way early to check in, there was a huge line ahead of us already. We counted 3 separate tour groups of teens...probably all of them are going to Disney World. There are parents, sisters, and grandparents, all here to see their kids off, so the line is “padded” with many extra people. However, for the hundreds of us who will board the plane, there are 3 check-in agents and each person seems to take forever. We arrived at the airport at 8am and I just stepped up to the check-in desk at 9:20. Why it took so long for the others, I’ll never know, because I walked away at 9:21. Quem sabe?

Shalomir and Renan came with us because Drew was not so familiar with the directions. There’s just one highway to Recife, but once you get here the airport exits are not so clearly marked. Coming to pick me up last week, Drew got lost 2 or 3 times. The flight is late so we still have time to have a little breakfast – at least a coffee and a pao de queijo (bread with cheese baked inside it...a favorite of many Brazilians). When we get to the security gate, it looks crowded, but everyone is just saying goodbyes – many times over! I walked right through and on to the x-ray machines. Since my other suitcase was still too full to use as a carry-on, I had to check it, so I put my liquids in it. The US is the only place I’ve ever had to take off my shoes...never in other countries, however, they have to do a closer inspection of my bag. Turns out in Brazil, contact cases and contact solution are classified as liquids. In all the other countries, contacts and solution are classified as medication...I thought that TSA security would be the same everywhere, but obviously they don’t agree with me. Anyway, the security agent found a plastic bag in which to put my contact solution and 2 contact cases...then took quite a long time to examine my EPI pen...turned it over and over. I explained that it was medication in case of a bee sting. Remembering that I saw not one bee during my entire 10 days here...maybe she hasn’t either. No flies, one or 2 mosquitoes, and 2 wasps at the beach. Most beach homes don’t even have glass in their windows and none of the apartment homes have screens. I left my windows open all day and night and never saw any flying critters. It’s just not a problem at all – boy I sure wish we had this “non-problem” in Georgia!
Something I may have forgotten to mention is the fact that even though Shalomir and Maikol had a hot shower, it was in their master bedroom bath. Maikol hadn’t been feeling very well, so he was in bed most of the time...I would have had to ask him to leave. Plus, most mornings we left so early, that if I wanted the hot water bathroom, I’d have had to shower at noon, when we came back to get ready for lunch, so I just continued to take the cold showers. Fortunately, though, the water is not icy cold, like ours is, so it wasn’t quite the shock it could have been. Mainly, staying there was much more like being with family because from 21 years ago when we first met, every time I traveled to Brazil, I always stayed with the Saunders family. There are 2 biological children – Shalomir is the elder, and Joshua is a couple years younger than her. There are also 6 adopted children, all grown with children now. Naomi is the adopted child I know best because at one time I had considered adopting Naomi and her brothers, Abraham and Marcio. But instead, Drew adopted the 2 older ones, and Marcio went to another family who really wanted just him. He was such an adorable little boy...I fell in love with him instantly, but he had already been spoken for – just waiting for paperwork when I met him. Naomi is now around 26 years old and lives in Waupaca, WI. Guess how that happened? She had one child here in Brazil, and around age 1, the child became very sick and died. So Drew wanted to “distract” Naomi from her grief and asked if she could come visit us for a month or so. Since I’ve spent so much time with her, she’s more like a daughter to me and we were thrilled to have her there with us. That month turned into 6 months, at which time she had met a boy who asked her to marry him...which then allowed her to remain in the states on a permanent green card. Even when we moved away from Waupaca, Naomi had made so many friends there she wanted to stay. She now has 4 children and has remained right there in Waupaca. Right now, Drew is considering visiting her for a while until the visa problem gets resolved. His other option is to apply for a marriage certificate and hope he can get someone to “grease” the wheels a bit and expedite a license for him to marry Sueli immediately.

I’ve got so many little notes in my notebook, it’s going to take a while to sort them all out and categorize them. We talked more about when I come back with the group – things we want to do, places we want to take the group, and the work that has to be done. For anyone considering making this trip, please be assured that I will request that your hosts have hot water showers for you. That’s probably more common than not, especially in the homes of Cidade Viva church members, so don’t worry about the cold water. The meals will probably all be together in one place so you don’t have to worry about eating or drinking anything terribly unfamiliar to you unless you really want to. Another consideration is host families who speak English. With the school at Cidade Viva, and Drew’s English classes for the adults, that’s probably a non-issue. I’ve discovered that when in doubt, sign language works just fine. Everyone has bottled water but there’s no need to worry about brushing your teeth or taking showers in it. I remember on a trip to China (before the western world was even allowed in) we couldn’t even use the tap water for brushing our teeth...every night we received a thermos of hot water outside our hotel room door, and each morning we brushed our teeth with it, so I got used to doing that activity with warm water. But here it’s not so critical.
There is so much more...keep checking my blog, because I’ll be updating everyone on what’s going on in Joao Pessoa as well as more definite plans for our team trip.

Saudades

On my last day here, Drew arrived about 8am because we were supposed to leave at 8:30. This whole week he has had some business emergencies, so many of our appointment times had to be changed. But he brought over some papaya, delicious ham, and a thermos of coffee from Sueli, which I enjoyed while he was on his call.
Stopping to pick up Sueli, we drove out to the Casa de Salem, where Helio was volunteering this morning. There were several young mothers with their babies, waiting for the doctor. One of the biggest problems in the favelas is there are so many babies being born. The clinic offers free birth control, but the girls forget to get it! Helio showed us around the small building – there is a dental chair and some equipment, and another office where he sees his patients. Sueli’s sister, a pediatrician, was going to meet us there to see what she could do for them. We got a call that she was blocked from coming by a big truck that was stuck in the mud – up to the axels. So we drove to the end of the street and picked her up. She spoke with Helio and decided the days she would be available to volunteer.
I heard a lot of rain in the middle of the night, and early this morning it rained as well, but by now it was clear, sunny, and hot. When we left Casa de Salem, we had planned to go to the beach, and Sueli invited her sister, Bete (Elizabeth), to come with us, so we dropped her car off at their parents’ home and continued on to Praia do Sol (Sun Beach) for, as Drew puts it, “the best crab and shrimp anywhere”.
The trip took about 40 minutes, and there weren’t very many people there because it’s not a protected beach (no life guards). So we had the place almost to ourselves, though the longer we were there, the more people continued to arrive. There are many little shacks in the area, all with different colored tables, chairs, and umbrellas in front of them. Each one tried to outdo the other with the decibel count of their music. The bass was pounding so loudly the grains of sand were jumping (ok, so I exaggerated...what can I say, I was raised to speak in Baptist!). Evidently one shack finally won because the others turned their sound systems off. This place is owned by the parents of Sueli’s daughter’s boyfriend (got that?), so of course we had to eat there. The server brought beers for everyone (when in Brazil...), and crab soup for me and Drew – the two sisters didn’t have any. But they loved the crabs. I prefer my crabmeat out of a can or casserole dish...seems like a whole lot of work and messy hands for such a little payoff! I managed to navigate my way through just one crab, and I’m sure it was good, but to me it was just annoying! Shortly, a plate of shrimp and French fries arrived as well...Drew doesn’t eat crab. (ok, then, how could he assure me this was the best crab on the beach???). Every place that we've had shrimp, it's been served with the shells on. I seem to be the only one who peels it - everyone else just chews the shells too. (eeuw!)
We washed our greasy hands off in the ocean, which was muito agitato (very rough) today – probably from the storm last night. The water wasn’t as warm as yesterday at Besso Beach, and the color was brown from all the sand being swept up by the big waves. Sat back down at our table and continued our conversation, Sueli and I in the sun, and Drew and Bete under the umbrellas, which had to be tied down because it was so windy. One thing I noticed here is that everyone discusses and discusses things over and over again. It’s all about the relationship, which I’ve mentioned I appreciate.
Had to get back for a 4:00 meeting with Sueli’s brother-in-law, Ricardo, a lawyer who just happens to hold the position of “vice-mayor” in the town council. The hope is that he will be able to help Cenca in some way. Maria Jose, Sueli’s eldest sister, is married to Ricardo. Their son Bruno greets us at the door, and surprises me with fairly good English. Ricardo and Maria Jose don’t speak English, so 2 conversations take place at the same time...the 2 couples in Portuguese, and Bruno practices his English telling me (and showing me on his computer) about a project in another poor community that he and some friends have been working with. They have built houses and hope to add a sport court soon. They’ve done a lot of work already and he asks me if “my people” will be interested in helping their project, called Um27 (One twenty seven, for James 1:27 – the verse that talks about helping the widows and orphans). I always feel humbled and overwhelmed at the same time, because I am only one person, but when I join with others in the body of Christ, we can accomplish so much. I also feel a huge responsibility to return as I have said I will – many times - with groups of enthusiastic people willing to give their lives away – people who will commit to an ongoing relationship with these who are so needy.

On my last evening here, “the fam” (Drew and Sueli, Shalomir, Michael and Renan) treated me to a Churhascarria! Sal e Brasa (Salt and Ashes.....literal translation). The salad table is huge and I have to remind myself not to fill up on salad, because the waiters keep coming around to our table with skewers of different cuts of meat, which they will slice right there for us. This particular restaurant also has a sushi bar. We eat until we have to be rolled away from the table and can’t even think of looking at the dessert cart. While we’re all together, Michael calls Marta (his sister) so we all talk to her. She’s on her tour to the south of Brazil and Chile, and she’s FREEZING! We’ve seen pictures of the snow and ice on last evening’s news. Marta is more than excited and prematurely appreciative of what “my group” is going to do for Cenca.

Outside the Churhascarria, goodbyes are said – Sueli can’t come with us tomorrow because her son is returning from a church retreat and we all think she needs to be there for him. So, it will be quite a while before I see my dear new friend again and our parting is emotional.
I will be sad to leave my friends...21 years is a long time to know someone... especially in the case of Shalomir who was just a little younger than Renan when I first met her. I watched her grow up during the years I traveled frequently to Brazil. She is so smart and capable, and has matured from a girl to a lovely young woman who loves interacting with people, and a very caring mother for this little boy whose biological mother could no longer care for him. In fact, his birth mom was one of the first girls Marta helped raise in the orphanage she started – the Shalom House. Kinda completes the family circle in a way. Just reminds me how we’re all connected and God has given us the responsibility to care for each other.

I'm already filled with saudades (there's not really a translation except it just means "missing") for my new friends and not so new friends, and the people for whom I hope to help make a difference. I've traveled all over the world, and love every place I've been, but somehow, Brazil is different. Each time I leave this beautiful country, a little piece of my heart stays behind. Please think about coming with me on this mission trip in the fall. Your life will forever be changed.

Ahhh, the beach!

No English classes today, but Drew picked me up at 7:30 to take me to Sueli's apartment so I could watch her make cuz cuz. This is a type of corn meal that is soaked and then steamed, and here one puts it on the plate and tops it with a fried egg. Not bad...pretty bland, but since I love to learn regional meals, I'll know how to make this for Terry when I get home. Sueli laughs at me with my camera, photographing every step of this process. It's not really hard at all, but hers is much better than Penha's, so of course I want to learn from the best! We have our breakfast and then go back to pick up Shalomir and Renan in order to meet Rosinha at one of the orphanages.
The first place we go has between 11 and 13 people (depending on who you talk to). Most of these are young mothers who have come here for refuge from abusive men - husbands or otherwise. They are very young and all have babies. My biggest disappointment is that Rosinha won't allow me to take pictures, lest someone somewhere discover where these women are. The home is well kept and nice, taking into account the poor standards. I meet each gal and her baby - one of the girls is now 18 and has been here since she was a baby. She has nowhere to go, so if she helps out at the home, they won't have to kick her out. When we meet, she has a big smile and kisses me on both cheeks, (the usual greeting) and I can tell she has a very sweet, helpful spirit.
On to the next orphanage, run entirely by the state of Paraiba. Lar da crianca Jesus de Nazare. Jesus of Nazareth Children's Home. Here the state forbids me to take any pictures as well because many of the kids have been removed from the home and they don't want the parents to find out where they are. One of my very favorite things to do is photograph children's faces, and I'm just itching to sneak out my camera. However, all the ladies who work there watch me as if I'm there to steal one of their babies! There is one who is just one month old, sleeping in a pram. He is one of the babies who has been "rescued" from being tossed in the garbage. Yes, you read it right. In fact, just today, another baby has been discovered on a garbage heap in Sao Paulo. Rosinha and Cidade Viva have started a campaign, going through the streets with loud speakers, and also passing out flyers for mothers who don't want their babies. "Please don't throw them on the garbage", urges the flyer and the recorded message...going on to say "adoption is an option." It probably doesn't rhyme that way in Portuguese, but the message is still the same. It's way beyond my comprehension how anyone can physically toss a human being onto a garbage heap. Then again, living in America, we've just "invented" more civilized ways of abusing people - either mentally or emotionally. I know, because I'm a survivor.

Jesus of Nazareth home has about 130 residents, many of them physically or mentally disabled adults who have been here all their lives, and obviously have no place to go. Several of them never even have any visitors, though family may live in the area. On the way out, we encounter the woman who runs the home as well as one of the mothers whose children live in this home for financial reasons. She has just birthed her 9th child (all from different fathers, of course) - some of them live with her, and some live in the orphanage. Can't imagine what one must feel, coming to an orphanage to visit one's children.

Since my time here is quickly winding down (it's Friday and I leave early Sunday morning), Shalomir wants to take me to downtown Joao Pessoa because there are several very old and beautiful churches. When the Portuguese first settled in Brazil, all the other cities were settled on rivers; Fortaleza, Recife, Olinda, and of course Rio de Janeiro. Joao Pessoa was the first and only city settled on the river and only later did people begin to move toward the ocean. We went into the oldest hotel in the city, Hotel Globo, which is now called the Spanish consulate. There may be a small office somewhere in the building; however, it's little more than a museum with a few artifacts from the original hotel. The views from this property are incredible and we spent quite a bit of time here, taking pictures and walking around. At one point, a guy stuck his head out of a window and said "Where are you guys from?" Turns out Alvares has been a tour guide to Orlando for 25 years, taking groups as large as 250 people. He knows Marta (as Shalomir says, "everyone knows Marta") and tells us that he's going to be 60 this year so he's thinking of retiring, but he misses going to Orlando with the tours!

The oldest church was next on our list of 'things to see while you're in Joao Pessoa'. Igresa St. Francisco. It's 500 years old and not in use any more, though others of the really old churches are still being used as wedding venues. Shalomir is an excellent tour guide...she has worked in the hotel business and teaches school children, also running the English department at Cidade Viva, so she's well versed on the history of the place and the buildings. She also knows all the good shortcuts through the center of the city!

After lunch at Marta's (for menu see 5 previous blogs...) Shalomir and I decide to get our nails done. I've done this with both Jaime and Hayley (Terry's daughters) and Mary Lynn, my daughter-in-love, and it's a fun "girlie" time together. Renan comes with us and charms all the other ladies in the salon. He's so outgoing and extremely well-behaved. I think I've seen him cry once and that was because he smashed his finger in a door! He chooses white polish for his mother and I get purple. I was so relaxed I nearly fell asleep. When I wake up so early, I'm pretty ready for a little nap by this time in the afternoon.
After going back home to pick up Drew, our next stop is the policia federale. His visa has run out and he is asking for an extension...which he does not get. He and Sueli want to get married, but they find out from the notary that it takes a very long time for permission because so many people are just marrying Brazilians in order to live here. Much discussion ensues, after which nothing is really resolved. (it's the Brazilian way) But the new police station is so close to the beach we decide to stop. This is a great wind-surfing beach and there are about 5 or 6 guys out there today. For once, the sun has remained out most of the day and it's absolutely gorgeous. I've immediately got my flipflops off and head for the water. It's very warm, though not too clear. Drew (again!) needs to get back home to receive a business email but Sha offers to drop him off and come back to pick me up. Being polite, I demure, but she insists. Well, if somebody just HAS to stay at the beach, I'll volunteer! Renan stays with me and we pre-arrange a place to meet...the turtles where we stopped the other day just to take a picture. She figures it'll take us about 45 minutes to walk there. Renan and I start walking and, surprise, surprise, he gets his shoes and socks wet. Oh well, he decides to take them off and roll up his pants. We discover crab holes, lots of sand dollars, a rainbow, and a "river" left by the ebbing tide. I'm pretty fluent in 7-year old Portuguese, so we can understand each other just fine. Along the way it seems expedient (in the mind of a 7-year old) just to go ahead and get all the way wet, so he splashes happily and I take pictures. I think Shalomir must have been speaking in "Brazilian" when she said a 45-minute walk, because we don't dawdle much at all and after 45 minutes, our meeting place still looks pretty far off. We begin encountering people who tell us that there's a lady waiting for us "back there". We look, and, sure enough, there she is, waving to us. Renan sets off at a run, but by now we're in the softer sand and it's like slogging through oatmeal up to our ankles...it still takes us about 15 minutes to reach her and by now it's getting dark. (Next time I'll have to remember it's about an hour and 5 minutes.)
We stop at home for a quick shower, then to Manacai Restaurant (it's an outdoor place) for sandwiches. I have a tapioca (no, not what you're thinking...it's dry tapioca put in a frying pan to coagulate and become a flat tortilla or soft taco) with shredded chicken. Renan has a pastel (again, no, more of what we would call an empanada) He drinks a huge glass of Acai (Ah sah EE), thick, like a milkshake. Mine is cupuacu, (ku pwa SUE) made from fruit only found in the Amazon, definitely an acquired taste. Off to the mall to drop off Acai juice and extra cups for Shalomir and Michael's milkshake shop (Tribo Milkshake e Yogurt - Milkshake and yogurt Tribe). I have to have the Creme de Papaya con Liquor de Cassis milkshake. I just have to. Then we're off to look at CDs. We've been listening to a CD by a young worship leader named Aline Barros - in Marta's car and I've really enjoyed it, so we'll see if we can find it here. Which we do, as well as DVDs, but I just get the CD. Shalomir chooses some kids' movies for Renan and her school children.

After our long walk on the beach, both Renan and I are really tired. His manifests as "squirrely" and talkative. Mine doesn't.
Michael is home when we get there but after a quick hello, I'm anxious for my bed.

TV interview

I feel like I'm back in school. Up every morning bright and early...it gets bright around 5am here, and this morning for some reason, the guy whose car was parked directly below my window thought it'd be a good idea to press his car lock button about 8 times in a row, honking the horn each time. I disagreed.
But since I was up, I made myself coffee and tried to connect to the internet to post my blog from yesterday...with no success. Drew has showed me how to disconnect the wires, but I felt lazy enough to just stay in my room, drinking my coffee and reading. Happy Bookers (with a "B") get-together in the neighborhood 4 days after I arrive back home so I've got to get this month's book finished.
After breakfast, back to Cidade Viva for the advanced English class. Today also I'll meet Paula Carosi, who will interview me for the TV program broadcast by the church at Cidade Viva. She's part of the class. Today, she WAS the class. (Everyone has paid for these lessons, but since they all work at Cidade Viva, sometimes they get tied up in their offices). Since no one else came, Drew agreed that we should just take a tour of the property. Before we begin, though, Paula gives me a very complete history of Cidade Viva and the faith of Pastor Sergio. He is a man who thinks big and has the confidence that God will do it. He is a pastor who researches the gifts of the people in his congregation and once he finds out, tells them he knows they're good at such and such, so they need to do it! And they do. (are you getting this, Pastor Neil?) This church is very involved, has over 20 different ministries around the city of Joao Pessoa, and so many in the congregation seem very willing to give sacrificially. In order to do some of their projects, of course, the people need to give more. For one of the projects, one woman stood up and said all she had was $50 reis, ($30US + or -) but she wanted to give it all and be an example like the widow in the Bible. Others have given cars and vans as well. Paula explained that so many of the people are very involved in all aspects of the ministry, from drug rehab to working with prostitutes, reuniting families, helping prisoners...and the list goes on. At last count, 28 separate ministries coming from Cidade Viva.
When Paula finishes, we take the tour. The school so far runs through the first year of the 3-year high school here in Brazil...possibly equivalent to our 10th grade. Very nice building with colorful classrooms, and Paula explained that the children's very favorite thing is their lockers! Of course it was pouring. We also see the offices of Cidade Viva, the "brains" of the operation (nice and cool in the computer room...a/c turned off everywhere else) and the TV studio where we'll have our interview this afternoon.

Finally changed money for the first time...dollar is falling (no kidding), which gave me less reis to spend. Oh well, I'll have to make do. (that also is a joke, because I never buy much at all.) In our hotel in Maragogi, I saw a ceramic figure that I really liked, but since it was in the lobby, I figured they would not appreciate if I took it. Therefore, I will look for them here...in the Feira de Artisanato (Handicraft Fair). Next time I come I want to buy some clothing, made from fabric only made here in Joao Pessoa, not dyed, so in shades of tan and natural white, but this time my eye is on the ceramic woman. There are 3 floors and as is usually the case, many shops that carry the same items...but different prices, some negotiable and some not.
We visit all the shops that carry ceramic figures, but ya gotta be careful and look at the faces. Some are prettier than others. We find the perfect woman and the price is a good one. No "discount", but that's okay because she's taller than some I've seen at the same price. The proprietor wraps the mulher ceramica (ceramic woman) very carefully, I pay the 40 reis and we're ready to go for lunch to Marta's apartment. However, we discover that Shalomir and Renan are in the bank right next door so we stop to say hello. That's one of my favorite things about Brazil (and many of the European countries I've visited) - the fact that relationships are more important than schedules. There may be an appointment set for a certain time, but if we happen to see someone we know, we stop and talk. The bank has a very little revolving door that only admits one person at a time. Make sure you do not take any metal items in with you, or the door stops. Renan was watching carefully at the bottom and the top of the door and I could just see the puzzlement in his little mind - what made it stop sometimes and not others? I call him "Mr. Gadget" because he has already figured out things about my camera and Droid that I've not known in all the time I've had them! As cute as he is, and with his dimples, he's going to be trouble one of these days, for sure. His mind is so quick and his eyes are full of mischief. He hasn't even been living with Sha and Michael for a year yet, but he knows he is loved and he's so willing to give it back as well. Even though we saw each other this morning, I get a nice tight hug. I love getting those. He's wearing one of the shirts I brought for him that is supposed to change colors in the sun. Unfortunately, it's still raining, but maybe before I leave, we'll get to see it.

For lunch, you probably won't believe we had liver and onions, chicken, and the ever present beans and rice to be topped by farofa - manioc flour that is dried and, in this case, mixed with chopped bananas...doesn't sound appetizing, I know, but makes a nice topping for the beans and rice. This time no salad, which is fine because that too, varies little to not at all. Much of the food gets overcooked, and therefore, quite dry. And EVERYONE cooks with way too much salt. (they also brew their coffee highly sugared) I think when we bring the groups we'll have to have some ground rules with the cooks - leave out the salt (or at least most of it), and brew coffee without sugar. There doesn't seem to be very much variety in what is cooked in the home, but they make up for that with the vast array of delicious tropical fruits and juices.
This afternoon I'll be interviewed by Paula Carosi for her TV show "Universo Femino" and I'm proud to say I was her very first interview entirely in English. Until now, she's used translators, but since she's been taking lessons with Drew, her crew wanted her to speak English and Drew will then transcribe the interview for the subtitles. She did and excellent job, and I thoroughly enjoyed her and her questions as well as her reactions to my answers. She said something no one but Terry has ever said to me. At the end of the interview Paula asked me to bring my violin the next time and play for her show, but for this time she loved hearing the music in my eyes. I'm getting teary just remembering that. Quite taken by surprise, for once I did not have a response.
We had a meeting set up tonight with Samara, who runs Cenca, assisted by Marta, and the head of the town council who will receive the project explanation and requests. If he approves this, Cenca will have some government funds with which to continue their work. As I'm writing this, we got an email from Samara, who explains that her kitchen ceiling has just collapsed and she has to wait for a repair man. We then called to inform Ricardo, the head of the council and he replied that he will do everything possible but right now he's tied up at the courthouse because the roof has collapsed. I ask you - what are the odds of that? (the 2 don't even know each other) We're still scratching our heads. We'll postpone this meeting till Saturday and hopefully no more ceilings and roofs will collapse!
Sha's coming to pick us up. I have strange requests. I want to go to Carrefour to buy a pot for cuz cuz. No, not our couscous. Corn meal that sticks together a little like rice. Drew likes it with a fried egg and now that I've tried it, I think I'll bring some home and make it for Terry. This is a tall pot with a built-in steamer/container. Of course I have to buy the cuz cuz as well. A package of farofa has appeared among my items too. The first time I went to Carrefour was in San Paolo 21 years ago. There were 100 cash registers. Yes. All of them in use. And the personnel navigates around the store on roller blades, checking prices, etc. When I took out my camera to record this phenomenon, I was swiftly reprimanded by one of the guards at the front of the store. Nao! Nao! Nao foto! Like I was going to steal some deep, dark secret and open up my own store in Orlando or something. The store originates in France, and Terry and I have also been to a very large one near Paris, but not as big as that very first one I went to in Sao Paolo.
We're waiting right now for Sueli to come pick us up for dinner. Tonight it'll be just the 3 of us so we're going back to Nau, from Sunday night, my first night here in Joao Pessoa. The shrimp was SO good and the rice SO creamy, we want to repeat the experience. After that, the bed will invite me very quickly, so I'll just sign off for now and see you again tomorrow.

sunset on the beach

Up at 6 in order to be ready for Drew to pick me up for English class. These adults really want to learn, and the class is even more fun than yesterday. 2 of the 6 from yesterday return, along with 4 others I haven’t met. Today we continued conversing with each other about locations of places and their relationships to each other. “The barber is behind the coffee shop”, etc. Lots of laughs. Sueli met us here because afterward we’re going to look at an apartment Drew and Sueli want to buy after they are married, which should be within the next year, or sooner, depending on Drew’s extension of visa for Brazil. He has lived here most of his adult life until the last 7 years when he was in Spain teaching English. After 5 years out of country, one loses one’s permanent citizen status and needs to re-apply for permanent residence. Brazil allows dual citizenship, and since he’s from England, he also has a British passport. If he uses that one, he doesn’t need a visa for the States.
When I applied for, and received, my visa for Brazil, I noticed this time the indication is that it’s good for all travel within the next 10 years. Much different than my trips 20 years ago, when each time I came, I had to apply for a new visa. I asked Drew about it and he said Brazil plans to eliminate all need for visas very soon. Joy! Cut out several exasperating steps of the process!
The apartment was closer to the ocean, and very nice...but as it was not completed yet and all open, we had to ride the construction elevator – ok, it was a cage – on the outside of the building. Of course just because everything was all un-enclosed, it had to rain! But we don’t have any more “important” appointments for the day, so I guess “rain hair” will have to do. Though it was foggy, I still had pretty good views of the long beaches. I hate that it’s so cloudy because at night I can’t see the southern cross constellation that only occurs here and not north of the equator.
Sueli left for work and we took our usual lunch at “the gathering place”...Marta’s apartment. Today it was just Drew and me...Lourdes and Carlitos had gone to Recife for some medical appointments. Lunch is always the same – the biggest meal of the day (which I like) – and consists of a nice salad, usually lettuce, cucumbers and tomatoes. Olive oil and vinegar are set on the table. Penha makes scrumptious, tender liver. (ok, everyone who just said “ugh” doesn’t get dessert tonight!)
There are pieces of chicken and also ground beef besides these delicious liver pieces. Always, there is rice and black beans. Here in the north, one puts the beans on the bottom and tops it with the rice. Since my first several trips to Brazil were to the south (Sao Paulo, Rio, Curitiba, etc.) I learned to put the rice on the plate first, then the beans. So, I usually say Eu sou Paulista (I’m from Sao Paulo). It’s not quite as heated an argument as the Gators vs. the Seminoles, but comes close!
Here one would take a coffee mid-morning, but not usually at lunch. The lunch beverage is usually fruit juice (cashew, one of my favorites, maracuja – passion fruit juice, strawberry...here the list of fruit juices is seemingly endless). Occasionally there are potatoes and yesterday we had manioc prepared just like boiled potatoes. It’s sweeter and a bit softer than the potatoes. There is no dessert.

Back at Shalomir’s apartment we both tried to get on the internet but it kept failing. Who knows? (makes me feel right at home...we’ve actually had far quicker and better connections here than Terry and I do in GA) Since I’ve always got several books to read, I’m fine. Drew needed to skype with some business associates so he was frustrated for a while. When Sha returned with Renan (they arrived to lunch after we left) we all left for the mall, where she had an appointment with the “landlord” of her milkshake shop. Drew and I each had shakes...mine was nutella and he had “Creme de Papaya con liqueur de Cassis” (papaya cream with Cassis) and I think that’s my next choice. Mine was good, but his was heavenly. Renan, at 7, has already figured out some things about my camera that I’ve never known. Scary. He loves to take pictures so he played around with the camera, being very careful – and also my Droid phone. At one point, he asked me in Portuguese, though his parents are trying to teach him English as well, “where are the games?” He enjoyed looking at some of my pictures of the cruise, Terry, and Meisha and Max.
When Sha’s meeting was over we headed to the beach to walk for a while...Bessa beach. They’re all pretty, but this is one of the favorites. From the beach, we drove to the river - praia do jacare - (alligator beach - but no, there were none) where our intention was to watch the sunset. Though it had poured in the morning, by this time it had cleared up. Drew found us a spot at one of the little restaurants on the water and Shalomir, Renan and I walked through the little artisan kiosks there, where I bought some necklaces and 2 hats. Why? Terry asks...because I needed more necklaces and hats. (doesn't everyone?)
Sunset was less than spectacular because the clouds had rolled in, but we had some nice crab balls and guarana and listened to the guy who plays saxophone to Ravel’s Bolero every evening just at sunset. Searched all over the internet for a name, but couldn't find it. If you just google Ravel’s Bolero sax player at sunset in Joao Pessoa, you can see what we saw last night... 3,884th presentation.
Hurry home to change and go to Cidade Viva, first for a meeting with Rosinha about her work in the orphanages, and then for the church service, which began at 8 and ended around 9:30. Everyone was hungry so we stopped at a Japanese Restaurant for sushi buffet (little 7-year old Renan loves sushi!) before bedtime. Having dinner at 10 pm makes it more difficult to sleep, but I always figure I can sleep on the plane going home. Maybe.

Happy 4th

Morning began around 6:30 with a walk (just me and Marta) along the beach. It's shaped similar to a flat crescent and would take us several hours to walk from end to end - and I'm glad Marta isn't making me do the whole thing. Often she jogs the entire beach but today she has a lot to do before she leaves again tomorrow guiding another tour, this time 20 days - to the south of Brazil and then into Chile. As it is, we speed-walked almost 1 1/2 hours!
I met her parents this morning - they were asleep last night when we arrived. Lourdes and Carlitos are short, smiling, and speak no English. I'll stay here with them while Marta is gone, so yes, I can use more of your prayers. Although if they speak slowly, I can usually understand, or at least get the gist of what's being said. The maid Penha is also here, and when we came back from the beach, my bed was made. Boy, I could get used to this! (Oh yeah, I already have...Terry makes our bed every single day...even puts back the 10 decorative pillows in a near semblance of arrangement...thanks, Babe)
I'm waiting right now for Drew to pick me up...he has already come here once for Marta's mom - dropped her off at church, and then will come get her father for an appointment, picking Lourdes up at church on the way back here to have lunch. Then my work begins. We'll go to university for Marta, who had to take a test this morning, and then she'll show me all around Cenca and her projects in the slums. Got my cameras and notepads handy. Ok, he's here now...gotta go.

How do I describe Cenca? First of all the acronym means Evangelical Center for Children and Adolescents...arrived and met some of her "girls"...women who live in the favela and help her at the Center. They are open and friendly...everyone tells me their names and Marta shows me around. There is work being done today...someone has donated ceramic tile for the floor, so 2 guys who live in the Center are doing the work. The building needs floors, ceilings, and walls...electrical outlets and also computer hookups. Some of the rooms need to be divided, a second floor needs to be added for more classrooms, and there is a need for bathrooms and a bigger kitchen in the rear of the property. Other than that, it's complete. (for those of you Seminoles who didn't understand, that was a joke!)
Fortunately, in this area, which is barely outside of Joao Pessoa, no permits are needed. One just needs to build whatever one desires, and show the plans at the completion. I have no idea what the Prefeitura (City Hall) would do at that point if they didn't like what you built! There is a very inexpensive place at the end of the road nearby where materials can be purchased. We're hoping to get enough in donations from organizations, foundations, and churches, that we don't need to buy anything at all. Mariana, the graduating architect, showed me the plans she had drawn up and we transferred them to my computer so I can, in turn, explain it to the team members. Fabiana, a teacher, wanted to show us her school of 64 children. Currently, she's renting the building and when Cenca is refurbished, she'll move her students there rent-free.
We walked through the favela...a dangerous activity but for Marta accompanying us. "Homes" are built with just one wall separating each residence...like one long single story dormitory. Dirt floors, no window glass, and very tiny. It was hard for the 3 of us to even crowd into their "living room" space. They have nothing, but food obviously tops the list of needs. There is, however, a president (presidente da comunidade) in the favela to whom one would go if one has a dispute with a neighbor. This person also advocates with the local government on behalf of the residents in the community.
There are favelas all over Brazil, small communities that are extremely (with emphasis on "extremely") poor. Some of them have a cart and a horse and they travel into the nearby cities to pick up recycling, for which they can then receive a few coins to buy food for their families. My first encounter was more than 20 years ago on my first visit to San Paolo and Rio. All over the cities were cardboard homes built under the highways. Of course when it rains, between the water and the mud, all was lost and new cardboard must be found to build a new "house". At that time, Michael Jackson had just released a video picturing some of these favelas.
Our next stop was Casa de Salem (House of Peace) where Helio goes to volunteer his time as a doctor to the community. There is donated dental equipment and also an exam table where Helio can care for patients. Above his desk is a handwritten sign that proclaims "you are special to God". The resident burro is named either Anna or Shrek, depending on who answers my question. (It's a male)
Lastly, we arrived at the orphanage...sign in front reads: Resgatando Vidas. Ey Adoto Este Sorriso! "Rescuing Lives. Adopt this Smile!" Orphanages in Brazil are not allowed to house more than 10 children, and for up to 2 years only. At the end of those 2 years, the children must be returned to their homes if possible, or find another place to live. They often end up back in the orphanage and this cycle can repeat several times before children are able to be adopted. This orphanage has 12 kids, 11 girls and one boy. Niedja runs the home, and her husband Moises is studying biology in the University.
This building, too, could use some work, though not as much as Cenca. Here the lack is ceilings, updated bathrooms, and a renovated kitchen. The children's rooms are nice and colorful, and there is a large yard with a sandy area and plastic play gym.

As is often the case, this community is built very near the train tracks...where a group of boys was playing soccer. I remember visiting a slum in Guatemala, and the babies were just playing on the crosspieces of the tracks. When the train blew its whistle, the mothers calmly went to pick up their babies, let the train pass, and then put them back down in the middle again. We just have no idea what life is like for them. I tend to focus on each individual and that's what hurts my "mother" heart. Marta is only one person. I am only one person. The church - worldwide - needs to - as Chef Emeril says - "kick it up a notch". We need to have teams coming year-round, to build, to train, to feed, to play with, to tell them about Jesus. There's the missionary in me coming out again. I know there are many good works going on right now, and many churches who are doing their part (more than their part in certain cases) to help, but there's always so much more to do.

In our little "family" there are not enough cars to go around, so everyone borrows everyone else's car...although every day we all join together at Marta's apartment for lunch. This afternoon we pick up Sueli from work, hopefully to get her car from the mechanic, and later get Marta to the airport at midnight. Evening arrives and no one has made supper - (Lourdes will have nothing to do with the kitchen), so when Penha leaves at 2pm, no more food gets made. Even with the big lunch we had, we're hungry, so Drew, Sueli, and I go to the beach..."Churrascinho do Gaucho"...a little barbeque place with great garlic bread and picanha (New York Strip steak) prepared on skewers. A bottle of Bohemia beer and Guarana rounds out this late supper for us and it's home to bed. I saluted our troops for Independence Day.

Sunday...leaving Maragogi

Woke a bit earlier this morning to pouring rain. As I tried to quietly get my book, Marta again greeted me, (when she first wakes up, she begins spouting off in Portuguese a mile a minute and then realizes who I am and speaks English) but this time since she‘d gotten back to the room at 2am, she was going to try to sleep longer. No problem...I’m in the middle of a good book, so went out on the veranda, listened to the rain and read for an hour before I got good and hungry (and in need of some of their delicious strong coffee). Waited for a lull in the showers and walked between raindrops to the restaurant. I just love that God created so many colors, tastes, and textures, especially in the world of fruits. Had to try one of everything, plus this morning there was juice of maracuja (passion fruit) and mango juice. Who needs orange juice when there’s all this other colorful and tasty stuff to eat and drink?
On my 3rd cup of coffee and after hearing almost an entire BeeGees CD, Marta walked in and had a bit of breakfast too, before we took a very long (2 hours??) walk on the beach. Hopefully the rain had passed, though this morning was so gloomy and rainy I wasn’t so sure. We had both English and Portuguese lessons in the sand, (she writes better with her toe than I do!) gathered some seashells (like I don’t have enough at home from all over the world!) and just enjoyed creation together. We’ve known each other for at almost 20 years...lost contact...found each other on facebook, so we can be talking all the time, (I’m sure this is a huge surprise to those of you who know me well) or we can be silent. Either way, it’s totally comfortable. She is the mother-in-law to Drew’s daughter Shalomir, whom I’ve known since she was a little girl, and Marta’s son’s name is Michael, like mine. (my youngest biological son).
By the time we got back to the resort (I think we walked nearly all the way to the town of Maragogi), the sky was clearing and the sun was getting quite hot, so I changed and read by the pool closest to our building. There is one long, winding pool that runs the entire depth of the resort, from reception to the last bar before the beach and then a couple of others to either side of that one...well thought out and just begging for Kodak moments. Marta finished up some business and began rounding up the kids. Lunch was just a quick bite before I got my bags and came to the reception area, only to find out the bus driver is still 2 hours away! I guess nothing has really changed in Brazil since the last time I was here. Meeting times are merely vague suggestions.
Just outside the lobby is a lovely thatched roof gazebo...actually, it’s a really big outdoor room with comfortable wicker chairs, settees and tables all around an information desk in the center. Since the lobby is not air-conditioned, (or they just don’t turn it on in the winter) I decided to come out here to do the blogging...though it’s probably about 85 degrees, here in the shade with sheer, white billowy curtains I’m enjoying a delicious breeze. When the gal came to work the desk, she turned on some music and the first song I heard was “Here I am to Worship.” The background music in all the buildings here has been a curious mixture of 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s American pop/rock music, religious, and Brazilian.

Turns out we didn’t have to wait as long as we originally thought...driver arrived only about an hour late, so we got on the road, this time up the east coast instead of the inland route Drew, Sueli, and I endured. I'm on the right side of this luxury bus - no, really...this one is very nice...comfortable seats, curtains on all the windows, a TV monitor for videos that actually works...all this and air-conditioning too.
Shortly after we set out, we picked up 2 hitch-hiking soldiers...dropped one off halfway to Recife and the other right in the city. Along the way were more lush, green-covered ‘lumps’ (see previous blog) of earth...lots more sugar cane, palm trees and banana trees. As we neared Recife we could tell there’d been a big rainstorm...puddles everywhere, adding to the horribly pot-holed highway – the luxury of the bus doesn’t quite make up for the terrible bumps. Apparently Brazil DOT is nearly as effective as that of many of the northern US states!
However, bright spot – serendipity – of the day was the FULL rainbow on my side of the bus. Sometimes one just catches a little glimpse of ¼, or maybe ½ of the bow, but this one was bright, full, and “followed” us for quite a few kilometers. Thank you God for color and beauty, and the good sense to appreciate it!

About 6pm our time, I just had to hear Terry’s voice, so I called him for a few minutes till I lost cell coverage. It’s such a blessing to have that man’s voice, so happy and enthusiastic, answer the phone, every time I call, even if it’s just from “the green room” (my office on the 2nd floor of our home) to “the media center” (his office in the finished basement...otherwise known as “the best room in the house” if you’re talking to son Bobby.
We talked for just a few moments, lost connection, and then I called him back when we made a pit stop in a little restaurant along the way. The kids all bought something to eat, but Marta and I had dinner waiting in JP (Joao Pessoa), so we just snacked. Arrived in JP sooner than I thought, and Drew and Sueli were there to pick us up, take us to Marta's apartment to do a quick change and then out to dinner at the best shrimp restaurant in the city. We were meeting Helio, the doctor who volunteers every Monday at Cenca to care for the people there. We all had a good conversation about health and the how the government either is useless or has a case of right hand not knowing what left hand is doing. (sound familiar?) There are supposed to be programs in place for the poor to get free or radically reduced prescriptions, but even if the paperwork is filled out, when you take it to the governmental office, they claim to have no knowledge of it. Ahh, bureaucracy.

They were right...the shrimp dish we had was creamy and wonderful. We parted after dinner and Drew and Sueli dropped Marta and me off at the apartment with the instructions to call in the morning. "Late morning".

If it's Saturday, this must be Maragogi

What does it say about me that I always sleep much better when I’m in another country? I had a great rest and awoke around 7:30 Brazil time...6:30 “body” time, which, for me is sleeping in. I moved slowly and quietly to get out of my bed, and Marta said “Bom dia”. Guess she was already up and just waiting for me. We made our way to the restaurant, where we had the most glorious array of fruit. Besides seeing my friends here, 2 of my very favorite things about coming to Brazil are...no great time changes...during DST they’re just one hour ahead of us, and all the exotic fruits. I’ve seen some of them at the farmer’s markets around Atlanta, but some are still found only here. There was the usual watermelon, papaya, and kiwi. We can sometimes get goiaba (guava) but it’s not nearly as good because here it’s just hours from being picked ripe. As a rule, I avoid pineapple because it’s rarely very sweet. But the pale slices lured me in and their sweetness only made me want more...juicy, too. These are wild pineapple (ananas) in contrast to the cultivated ones (abacaxi). Cashew fruit (yes, fruit, with the nut attached to it) is an acquired taste, and I enjoy another called pinha (“peen’ ya”) that doesn’t have a translation. There was graviola juice...also no translation.
Drew and Sueli joined us about an hour later and after we had all eaten as much as we could (10 days of this kind of eating???) we all decided to walk on the beach. The tide was out so we just meandered toward the coral reef, which creates a natural boundary. There are many places called piscinas naturais – natural swimming pools, which occur when the tide goes out just a little and there are hollows in the sand that retain the water. It’s warm and clear, though the sand is dark and dotted with seaweed and driftwood. Guys drive around in dune buggies, hawking rides all the way out to the water...I’ve done that and it’s a lot more fun in the sand dunes of my favorite beach, Genipabu, in Natal.
When we finally turned around to come back - ooops - we noticed the tide had come in a bit – fortunately not terribly high, since none of us had swimsuits on. Before we made it all the way to the beach, it began to rain and by the time we got to some semblance of shelter, it was pelting us pretty hard. There were quite a few people by the bar so we all crowded as best we could, ordered some fishcakes and beverages. We stood for quite a while, drinking, but never receiving our fishcakes. When questioned, the bartender said, “oh, we didn’t make them.” No other explanation. Gotta love the communication here.
Since it was lunchtime, we all just decided to eat some real food – Drew and Sueli needed to get on the road, so we didn’t linger long. With hugs and kisses (we’re going to see them Sunday afternoon) they drove off, and Marta and I came to the reception area for the only available internet connection, sat here for longer than I imagined and had a coffee and some “sweeties” before she got tired and went back to the room. When I finally left, it was late in the afternoon, but still time to read on our veranda before dinnertime. Marta is an excellent tour guide and checks on her “children” (a group of 17-year-olds on holiday from school) very often, hanging out with them, going to the pool, gym, being a good mother hen.
Dinner was good, and the array of desserts just too enticing to ignore. I try to take just one bite’s worth of each flan and torte because they’re all delicious. After dinner we sat in our air-conditioned room and she “introduced” me to the projects she’s working on...she’s been working with female prisoners, teaching them English and the Bible, but that work will pause for a while, as she’s stretched much too thin. Her main work is called Cenca, where hopefully my team will come and help renovate in October. There she takes girls and women off the street and teaches them a trade like making jewelry, cutting hair, manicures, sewing, and, in the future, cooking. They learn English as well. Marta’s heart is probably bigger than all of Brazil and another love of hers is working in the slums. There are orphans and also kids who have parents, but no place to go during the day, so we’ll be able to go and meet them too. She is just one person and I sincerely hope that reading this might help ignite a fire that will bring us together as a team to come alongside her.
When I’d seen every picture on her computer we decided to watch some of the show in the outdoor theater of the resort. Evidently the young people working here are also given the double duty of being the “singers” and dancers in the show, and quite obviously the costume budget was a little less than that of Disney World (ok, a LOT less). But they were definitely enjoying themselves and loved being able to entertain us. The big thing is the fog machine...in between every number was the exact same music, same length of time, and lots of fog! Milli Vanilli has nothing on the one gal who lip-sync-ed to an American song but kept forgetting to keep the fake mike close to her mouth. Afterward, they invited everyone to come up and take pictures with them. You'll be very surprised that I declined.
Sleep came easily to me...Marta went out to spend some time with her kids again.

que supresa!

From the time I arrived in Brazil everything has gone smoothly. Well, sorta...well, let's say it's already been an adventure. But then again, I think that in some language somewhere, my name means adventuress, so I'm lovin' it.
Finally got a guarana (my favorite soft drink ever) on the TAM airplane. Saturday's arrival in Recife was picture-perfect. Except for the fact that Recife is not a very pretty city - it's as if someone just kept putting up unimaginative, ugly buildings with no thought of creating a skyline. My passage through customs and immigration was uneventful, with a smiling Drew and Sueli on the other side.
We grabbed a quick hamburger at Bob's in the airport and got on our way...south! South? Joao Pessoa is north of Recife.
"We have a surprise...it's a good one." Marta, who teaches in the university and works as a tour guide during holidays, has brought a group of teenagers to Maragogi, a resort on the sea. In Brazil it's considered a 5-star resort (www.miramarmaragogiresort.com). Que supresa! (what a surprise!). Because she's the guide, she can just add people to her tour, so she added the 3 of us. I'll go back to Joao Pessoa with her and the group on Sunday afternoon. I like Brazil! I haven't done any work yet and I'm getting rewarded with a nice resort stay.
But let's talk about our route to get here. Recife is in the state of Pernambuco and this resort is in Alagoas. We were told it was just about 30km over the border. Each state in Brazil has its own borders and taxes are collected from the trucks each time they cross into another state. Along the way, there was gorgeous scenery. I would say mountainous, but I don't think the height qualifies them to be mountains. However, they are larger than hills. It's as if God just stirred up very lumpy "earth batter" (wouldn't you know I'd relate it to cooking?) and just drizzled it over the area. All over these very high lumps there grows sugar cane. Kilometers and kilometers of it, with occasional banana trees for added visual texture. Sugar cane, of course, is used to make the alcohol/ethanol for gasoline. For quite a while we drove without encountering any oncoming traffic...only to be stopped by a huge traffic jam. Yes, in the middle of the countryside. As is often the case, people get out of their cars and trucks and begin talking with others along the way. We discovered there was an overloaded sugar cane truck that had broken down on the one-lane bridge about 1 or 2 km ahead. So we sat for almost an hour. However, Drew, ever the resourceful guy, drove further ahead...intending to, shall we say, cut in the line? About 20 minutes after we made our move, we saw the first oncoming traffic...about 5 cars. Then it was our turn, and because of Drew's decision, we were in the first group of 6 cars (we were second to the last!) that went over this one-lane bridge, hastily erected by the army...just wide planks across with a few going lengthwise. Behind us were probably several km of cars and trucks and it would have been a couple hours' wait had we stayed way back in the line. I think they were going to alternate sides, 5-6 vehicles at a time. Say it with me now, "cutting in line is a good thing."

[Brings back the eerie memories of one of Terry's and my trips to Brazil, when we had to fly to Caracas, Venezuela and then come in to Brazil on an overnight bus through the jungle. Of course it's blacker than black in the jungle at night. Every once in a while we would slow down considerably and then bump along for a while, then speed up. It's probably better that we had no idea what was happening, because later, we discovered that the slow-downs were due to rivers or deep gorges where we crossed wooden make-shift bridges similar to this one - only not built as well, sometimes only the 2 planks lengthwise...and no sides!!! The bus driver just had to keep the wheels on those planks! Then there were the soldiers who boarded the bus and came straight to the 2 Americans - pointing machine guns at our heads...well, we've had some adventures.]

We crossed the bridge into the state of Alagoas, thinking we had just about 30 km to go. Wrong. We just kept driving and driving...no cell phone signal so they were unable to call Marta...but I love how helpful everyone is. We stopped and asked people several different times and most of the time their directions agreed. The number was more like 70 km! At one point, one man told us that the road ahead was out, but a farmer had allowed some of his sugar cane to be cut down in order to make passage available. In the states we usually have several options of getting from point A to point B. In other countries, many times there is only one road with no other roads crossing it for miles and miles. So if a road is out or under construction, you might just have to turn around and go hours out of your way.
We found the way into the field and drove along, 12-ft. sugar cane stalks on either side of us. By this time it was dark because sunset begins around 5:30. It had rained sometime during the day here so already there were deep ruts in the still gooey mud. Hard to believe, but we again encountered a "traffic jam". This time only about 5-6 vehicles on either side of a really big quagmire where a heavy truck had sunk down to where the back wheels and the back end of the truck were entirely covered with mud. I'm wondering how he ever got out (or maybe he's still there) because it was just a bunch of guys with some ropes and smaller trucks with no chance of decent traction! Drew measured the space between the truck and sugar cane and figured we had just enough space to squeak past, so we decided to go for it. Of course one needs to keep one's foot on the gas lest one also gets stuck in the mud! I'll usually take on any driving challenge, but let's just say I'm glad I was not the driver in this case. When we finally arrived back on the main road, almost 6km later, it was so potholed that we had to slow down tremendously so as not to break an axle or get a flat tire...some of those spots were canyons! Think about it for a minute...black night outside, no street lamps, no towns, very few cars at all, no gas stations...you get the picture. I was glad I had not drunk too much water at lunch.
We arrived at the resort at almost 7pm, after leaving the Recife airport at 2:30, and were greeted by Marta, waiting in the lobby...we hugged and she apologized to me for such a stressful arrival. Stress? Who, me? I was laughing and taking pictures the whole time. We got our little bracelets that allowed us to do all of the activities, dropped off our luggage in our rooms, and met for a delicious dinner, after which we all went to bed. All except Marta, that is, who went dancing with her tour group. Sleep came very easy to all of us.

if it seems too good...

Ok, I knew things were going too smoothly. It really seemed too good to be true...as I waited for the Miami flight, I noticed there was about an hour delay posted on the board. An announcement to that effect was made, but I hardly had time to ask about my connection when the next announcement declared the flight cancelled. Don't you just love to hear the word "weather" in conjunction with your cancelled flight? That's the airlines' way of saying they're not gonna lift a finger to help their stranded passengers.
Somehow I found myself 6th in line at the American Airlines desk for rebooking...that never happens to me because I'm not one to push my way in line. However, it soon became clear I would be waiting for a very long time and I really began to feel sorry for the others behind me. Proactively I called Martha, the world's greatest travel agent, and even as I moved closer to the front of the line, she was able to find me another flight not going through Miami (or Singapore, for that matter, which sometimes happens when you're trying to avoid certain cities!). Finally it was my turn at the counter, and the agent told me that the reserved flight ...for which I had a seat...was overbooked by 30 people. Simultaneously, I've got Martha on the line, who says "if they give you a seat assignment, you're on!" My "friend" at the counter was probably in for a long night and already regretting having not just called in sick. She snapped at me "well, then just have your travel agent book the flight with Delta!" Which I did. When I had my confirmation numbers in hand, I returned to the woman at the counter, who called Delta to confirm and then issued me a ticket. Whew!
Next order of business was to go to baggage claim for my suitcase and bring it to the Delta counter, and check in for the new flight, which would be non-stop from Atlanta to Brasilia.
The good news was that my suitcase and I were reunited, without anyone having a chance to lose it! But now that I was on an international flight, I had to ride that little train "all the way" to the "E" terminal, where I waited in line without incident, checked in, and once again said goodbye to my suitcase.
This time going through security, I just happened to get a TSA person with an attitude, or maybe she just fought with her boyfriend - whatever, she proceeded to unpack most of the contents of my carry-on bag, looking for, as she put it, "lots of little bottles of liquids all over the place." Really?? I had deliberately packed all liquids in my checked bag, leaving only a few vitamin bottles, (capsules) which I had placed in another bag to keep them all together. I mentioned that to her, but evidently it only spurred her on to prove me wrong. Of course one is not allowed to put one's hand over the "fence" to aid/interfere with packing/unpacking, so I watched quietly, almost curious to see what little bottles she could find! Of course my things were now strewn all over her desk...but still no bottles. I thought of inviting her to totally empty the bag, but some people need to be superior without actually finding out all the facts, which might prove them wrong. I knew that she had to save face so I continued to keep quiet, even as I watched her stuff everything back with a huff and then catch the zipper on my sweater not once but twice. I realize she's "just doing her job", but it's always much more pleasant to be kind and friendly. I usually try to joke a little with the person and see how long it takes me to get a smile or a laugh, but there was no humor in Ms. TSA yesterday. Made me think of our favorite quote from good friend Roger Heuser (who married us 12 years ago in the Loire Valley) who likes to say, "I take my work seriously but I don't take myself seriously." Good idea. The need for some people to be superior just brings out the clown in me...I'm always looking for a way to crack a joke, but many of 'em just don't get it.
Found my way to the gate and sat down on the floor to recharge phone after all that time with Martha, who kindly just "hung out" on the line with me till we got everything straightened out.
By the way, if you're interested, Martha works for The Cruise Experts, in California, where another good friend, Wes, also works. Wes and Terry know each other from music groups about a hundred years ago, and everyone there always gives us such wonderful service...we've gotten some ridiculously inexpensive cruises and the best advice...for Terry's 60th birthday I wanted a nice hotel in Budapest...Wes took only about a day before he called me back to give me the name of a wonderful Boutique Hotel that was having a "birthday discount"...I've told lots of you that our room was discounted the percentage of the birthday boy! Yep. 60% off. We just couldn't stop laughing it was so luxurious!
Just a shameless plug for the best TA ever! I'm not getting any payment, and they didn't even have to ask me to do it!
Boarded the plane, doors were closed, and there were still about 6 empty seats (on the flight that was 30 overbooked). For the first time ever, I think, I had adults all around my immediate area, which made me think I might even get to sleep on this overnight flight. Boy was I wrong! Screaming babies suddenly appeared, and right behind me, a yippy little dog. In addition, the captains seemed to be looking for every little bump they could find. Sleep was definitely not in my future, but I did manage to snag a few little catnaps. For Delta Airlines, the meals were pretty bad. (let's face it, for any airlines they were bad!) I picked at the pressed chicken, and ate the dessert. Apparently someone also neglected to put all the alcoholic drinks on board because the man in front of me tried to order something and the attendant was explaining to him the terrible service they had from the ground crew, who just forgot to restock the galley.
Fortunately puppy finally stopped yipping, and somewhere over the ocean the babies stopped screaming, only to start again the minute breakfast began to be rolled up the aisles. Did I saw bad? I'm not sure I'd dignify what was put in front of me by even calling it a meal. Although there was a perfectly ripe banana to save it from being a complete disaster. Being the coffee "snob" that I am, I nevertheless ordered coffee. My mistake.
Immigration and Customs were a breeze, and again I was able to check on my suitcase. Still coming along for the ride! Got it checked in for the last time and came to Gate 8, which, of course got changed to Gate 12.
Waiting for flight to Recife, I'm hoping that Terry was able to communicate all this to Drew. I did facebook him some partial info last night, but couldn't get through by phone or text. Terry tried calling several times as well with no answer or voicemail, but Drew's a pretty resourceful guy who'll figure it out, probably by process of elimination.
Here in Brasilia the sky is perfectly blue and it feels somewhat cool for now. I'm just glad to be here because the more people I spoke with last night, the worse things got. Being 4th of July weekend understandably makes it much more difficult to change/rebook travel plans, and I know that Miami flights were full for today. If I had tried to stay on the same flight, I would not have even been able to leave till Saturday or even Sunday.
They've called my flight. Off to Recife.