If it's Saturday, this must be Maragogi

What does it say about me that I always sleep much better when I’m in another country? I had a great rest and awoke around 7:30 Brazil time...6:30 “body” time, which, for me is sleeping in. I moved slowly and quietly to get out of my bed, and Marta said “Bom dia”. Guess she was already up and just waiting for me. We made our way to the restaurant, where we had the most glorious array of fruit. Besides seeing my friends here, 2 of my very favorite things about coming to Brazil are...no great time changes...during DST they’re just one hour ahead of us, and all the exotic fruits. I’ve seen some of them at the farmer’s markets around Atlanta, but some are still found only here. There was the usual watermelon, papaya, and kiwi. We can sometimes get goiaba (guava) but it’s not nearly as good because here it’s just hours from being picked ripe. As a rule, I avoid pineapple because it’s rarely very sweet. But the pale slices lured me in and their sweetness only made me want more...juicy, too. These are wild pineapple (ananas) in contrast to the cultivated ones (abacaxi). Cashew fruit (yes, fruit, with the nut attached to it) is an acquired taste, and I enjoy another called pinha (“peen’ ya”) that doesn’t have a translation. There was graviola juice...also no translation.
Drew and Sueli joined us about an hour later and after we had all eaten as much as we could (10 days of this kind of eating???) we all decided to walk on the beach. The tide was out so we just meandered toward the coral reef, which creates a natural boundary. There are many places called piscinas naturais – natural swimming pools, which occur when the tide goes out just a little and there are hollows in the sand that retain the water. It’s warm and clear, though the sand is dark and dotted with seaweed and driftwood. Guys drive around in dune buggies, hawking rides all the way out to the water...I’ve done that and it’s a lot more fun in the sand dunes of my favorite beach, Genipabu, in Natal.
When we finally turned around to come back - ooops - we noticed the tide had come in a bit – fortunately not terribly high, since none of us had swimsuits on. Before we made it all the way to the beach, it began to rain and by the time we got to some semblance of shelter, it was pelting us pretty hard. There were quite a few people by the bar so we all crowded as best we could, ordered some fishcakes and beverages. We stood for quite a while, drinking, but never receiving our fishcakes. When questioned, the bartender said, “oh, we didn’t make them.” No other explanation. Gotta love the communication here.
Since it was lunchtime, we all just decided to eat some real food – Drew and Sueli needed to get on the road, so we didn’t linger long. With hugs and kisses (we’re going to see them Sunday afternoon) they drove off, and Marta and I came to the reception area for the only available internet connection, sat here for longer than I imagined and had a coffee and some “sweeties” before she got tired and went back to the room. When I finally left, it was late in the afternoon, but still time to read on our veranda before dinnertime. Marta is an excellent tour guide and checks on her “children” (a group of 17-year-olds on holiday from school) very often, hanging out with them, going to the pool, gym, being a good mother hen.
Dinner was good, and the array of desserts just too enticing to ignore. I try to take just one bite’s worth of each flan and torte because they’re all delicious. After dinner we sat in our air-conditioned room and she “introduced” me to the projects she’s working on...she’s been working with female prisoners, teaching them English and the Bible, but that work will pause for a while, as she’s stretched much too thin. Her main work is called Cenca, where hopefully my team will come and help renovate in October. There she takes girls and women off the street and teaches them a trade like making jewelry, cutting hair, manicures, sewing, and, in the future, cooking. They learn English as well. Marta’s heart is probably bigger than all of Brazil and another love of hers is working in the slums. There are orphans and also kids who have parents, but no place to go during the day, so we’ll be able to go and meet them too. She is just one person and I sincerely hope that reading this might help ignite a fire that will bring us together as a team to come alongside her.
When I’d seen every picture on her computer we decided to watch some of the show in the outdoor theater of the resort. Evidently the young people working here are also given the double duty of being the “singers” and dancers in the show, and quite obviously the costume budget was a little less than that of Disney World (ok, a LOT less). But they were definitely enjoying themselves and loved being able to entertain us. The big thing is the fog machine...in between every number was the exact same music, same length of time, and lots of fog! Milli Vanilli has nothing on the one gal who lip-sync-ed to an American song but kept forgetting to keep the fake mike close to her mouth. Afterward, they invited everyone to come up and take pictures with them. You'll be very surprised that I declined.
Sleep came easily to me...Marta went out to spend some time with her kids again.

que supresa!

From the time I arrived in Brazil everything has gone smoothly. Well, sorta...well, let's say it's already been an adventure. But then again, I think that in some language somewhere, my name means adventuress, so I'm lovin' it.
Finally got a guarana (my favorite soft drink ever) on the TAM airplane. Saturday's arrival in Recife was picture-perfect. Except for the fact that Recife is not a very pretty city - it's as if someone just kept putting up unimaginative, ugly buildings with no thought of creating a skyline. My passage through customs and immigration was uneventful, with a smiling Drew and Sueli on the other side.
We grabbed a quick hamburger at Bob's in the airport and got on our way...south! South? Joao Pessoa is north of Recife.
"We have a surprise...it's a good one." Marta, who teaches in the university and works as a tour guide during holidays, has brought a group of teenagers to Maragogi, a resort on the sea. In Brazil it's considered a 5-star resort (www.miramarmaragogiresort.com). Que supresa! (what a surprise!). Because she's the guide, she can just add people to her tour, so she added the 3 of us. I'll go back to Joao Pessoa with her and the group on Sunday afternoon. I like Brazil! I haven't done any work yet and I'm getting rewarded with a nice resort stay.
But let's talk about our route to get here. Recife is in the state of Pernambuco and this resort is in Alagoas. We were told it was just about 30km over the border. Each state in Brazil has its own borders and taxes are collected from the trucks each time they cross into another state. Along the way, there was gorgeous scenery. I would say mountainous, but I don't think the height qualifies them to be mountains. However, they are larger than hills. It's as if God just stirred up very lumpy "earth batter" (wouldn't you know I'd relate it to cooking?) and just drizzled it over the area. All over these very high lumps there grows sugar cane. Kilometers and kilometers of it, with occasional banana trees for added visual texture. Sugar cane, of course, is used to make the alcohol/ethanol for gasoline. For quite a while we drove without encountering any oncoming traffic...only to be stopped by a huge traffic jam. Yes, in the middle of the countryside. As is often the case, people get out of their cars and trucks and begin talking with others along the way. We discovered there was an overloaded sugar cane truck that had broken down on the one-lane bridge about 1 or 2 km ahead. So we sat for almost an hour. However, Drew, ever the resourceful guy, drove further ahead...intending to, shall we say, cut in the line? About 20 minutes after we made our move, we saw the first oncoming traffic...about 5 cars. Then it was our turn, and because of Drew's decision, we were in the first group of 6 cars (we were second to the last!) that went over this one-lane bridge, hastily erected by the army...just wide planks across with a few going lengthwise. Behind us were probably several km of cars and trucks and it would have been a couple hours' wait had we stayed way back in the line. I think they were going to alternate sides, 5-6 vehicles at a time. Say it with me now, "cutting in line is a good thing."

[Brings back the eerie memories of one of Terry's and my trips to Brazil, when we had to fly to Caracas, Venezuela and then come in to Brazil on an overnight bus through the jungle. Of course it's blacker than black in the jungle at night. Every once in a while we would slow down considerably and then bump along for a while, then speed up. It's probably better that we had no idea what was happening, because later, we discovered that the slow-downs were due to rivers or deep gorges where we crossed wooden make-shift bridges similar to this one - only not built as well, sometimes only the 2 planks lengthwise...and no sides!!! The bus driver just had to keep the wheels on those planks! Then there were the soldiers who boarded the bus and came straight to the 2 Americans - pointing machine guns at our heads...well, we've had some adventures.]

We crossed the bridge into the state of Alagoas, thinking we had just about 30 km to go. Wrong. We just kept driving and driving...no cell phone signal so they were unable to call Marta...but I love how helpful everyone is. We stopped and asked people several different times and most of the time their directions agreed. The number was more like 70 km! At one point, one man told us that the road ahead was out, but a farmer had allowed some of his sugar cane to be cut down in order to make passage available. In the states we usually have several options of getting from point A to point B. In other countries, many times there is only one road with no other roads crossing it for miles and miles. So if a road is out or under construction, you might just have to turn around and go hours out of your way.
We found the way into the field and drove along, 12-ft. sugar cane stalks on either side of us. By this time it was dark because sunset begins around 5:30. It had rained sometime during the day here so already there were deep ruts in the still gooey mud. Hard to believe, but we again encountered a "traffic jam". This time only about 5-6 vehicles on either side of a really big quagmire where a heavy truck had sunk down to where the back wheels and the back end of the truck were entirely covered with mud. I'm wondering how he ever got out (or maybe he's still there) because it was just a bunch of guys with some ropes and smaller trucks with no chance of decent traction! Drew measured the space between the truck and sugar cane and figured we had just enough space to squeak past, so we decided to go for it. Of course one needs to keep one's foot on the gas lest one also gets stuck in the mud! I'll usually take on any driving challenge, but let's just say I'm glad I was not the driver in this case. When we finally arrived back on the main road, almost 6km later, it was so potholed that we had to slow down tremendously so as not to break an axle or get a flat tire...some of those spots were canyons! Think about it for a minute...black night outside, no street lamps, no towns, very few cars at all, no gas stations...you get the picture. I was glad I had not drunk too much water at lunch.
We arrived at the resort at almost 7pm, after leaving the Recife airport at 2:30, and were greeted by Marta, waiting in the lobby...we hugged and she apologized to me for such a stressful arrival. Stress? Who, me? I was laughing and taking pictures the whole time. We got our little bracelets that allowed us to do all of the activities, dropped off our luggage in our rooms, and met for a delicious dinner, after which we all went to bed. All except Marta, that is, who went dancing with her tour group. Sleep came very easy to all of us.